Let’s compare two watches, one featuring a Japanese movement and the other a Swiss movement. Both watches depend on a mainspring, which stores and distributes the power generated either by winding the watch by hand or through the motion of your wrist. The mainspring feeds into the automatic winding mechanism common to all mechanical watches. In these movements, you’ll also find “rubies” or “jewels,” which are actually synthetic corundum, not precious gems. Many people assume that these jewels contribute to the high cost of a watch, but their main function is friction reduction. These synthetic jewels are highly polished and incredibly strong, placed in areas where friction is present. Along with the lubrication used in the watch, is to minimise friction and ensure maximum power transmission through the gear train without losing energy.
In the movement, the center wheel typically rotates once per hour. This is where the cannon pinion is attached, which drives the minute hand as the wheel turns. A key difference between the Japanese and Swiss movements lies in the automatic winding mechanism. The Swiss movement uses bi-directional winding, meaning the oscillating weight winds the watch in both directions. In contrast, the Japanese movement only winds in one direction, while the other direction results in the weight spinning freely without winding the watch.
Another distinction is the design of the automatic winding bridge. In the Swiss movement, the automatic winding system is supported by both an upper and lower bridge, keeping all the components in place within a single module. The screws on the automatic bridge, unlike those on the Japanese movement, are part of a more integrated system. Regarding the winding mechanism, the Swiss bi-directional system uses two reversers. This ratcheting mechanism ensures that, depending on the direction of the oscillating weight, one reverser is always locked in place, winding the watch, while the other slips. The Japanese movement, by contrast, uses only one reverser.
Finally, while the components in both movements are similar in their function, one important difference that isn’t immediately visible is the power reserve. This refers to how long the watch can run after being fully wound before needing to be wound again. At Watch Capital, we have Swiss watches such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Omega and Tudor. However, we do not carry Japanese watches.
